It’s a tough lesson to learn, but if you learn it early, you will finish well ahead of many of those who blow past you in the early miles of the bike. You can ruin your entire race by swimming to hard. You can ruin your race by biking too hard over the first half of the ride.

You have to throw your ego out the window in order to be successful at triathlon. It’s hard to maintain your composure and ride at your pace/heart rate/wattage when your are being passed by seemingly everyone over the first half of the bike.

However, if you ride within your capabilities, not above, and save your energy for the run, you will be in for a big surprise. Usually over the last miles of the bike leg, you will start passing all of those people back who went by you earlier.

Also, if you are prepared and have ridden within yourself, your run is going to be much more enjoyable, and sometimes even fun. You will find that the race that had seemingly passed you by starts coming back to you.

Being strong on the run also gives you a psychological boost because you start passing a massive amount of racers who are physically and mentally spent. You get a big boost of confidence when you are running right by so many folks, and you often will get cheered on by both athletes and spectators for being so strong so late in the race.

So, if you want to be successful, especially in your first few races, make sure you save a lot of energy for the run. You will be happy you did. I guarantee that if you wait until the run to let it all hang out, you will have a good race relative to your capability. You also might even beat many more experienced triathletes who have simply gone way too hard too early in the race.

Give it a shot and let me know how it turns out. Remember, as in all things, be strong at the end!

http://www.fourhourworkweek.com/blog/2009/05/07/vibram-five-fingers-shoes/

http://theorytopractice.wordpress.com/2009/03/12/of-vibrams-and-fossil-records/

I have been running for a number of years and like most runners I have tried a number shoes. I’m in my fifth year of triathlon now and I have a pretty good idea of what works for me. I run anywhere from 10 miles a week for short course and as much as 50 miles a week when training for a marathon or Ironman.

I am a forefoot runner, which means I run mostly on the balls of my feet. There are a number of theories about how to run more efficiently, but for me, this is simply how I have always run and I am not sure I could change that if I wanted to. Over the years, I have noticed how running shoes tend to have a lot of cushioning in the heel, but for me, that seems to be a waste due to my forefoot style of running.

I have used ASICS DS Trainers for the past two years and I really cannot say I have any complaints. They worked so well for me that I would buy two pair online when they were on sale and slide them on day 1 and have no problems at all on a long run of 10 miles or more. So you may ask … If the DS Trainers work so well for you, why change? Great question, maybe a combination of curiosity, desire for something different and new or just plain bored with the DS trainer. Whatever the reason,  I started looking at various shoes on the market that are supposed to be designed for forefoot runners. I looked at the Newtons, Nike Free and the Zoot Ultra TT 2.0.

I decided to give the Zoots a try because they are pretty unique and a little more affordable, selling at about $120 a pair on sale. The site I ordered from recommended ordering the shoes a 1/2 size up, so I ordered a 9.5. However, this turned out to be bad advice and I had to return them for my normal size of a 9.

When my shoes arrived in the mail, my first impression of the shoe when I picked it up was wow! cool looking and super light, the heel of the shoe was not massively built up and the forefoot area bent upward easier then any other shoe I had tried to date. Sliding them on I noticed some of the finer points of the shoe.

Zoot Ultra TT 2.0

The shoe was designed specifically for triathletes incorporating features like quick laces built right into the shoe, a hole in the tongue and the heel to allow you to slide your fingers in and pull the shoe on quickly in transition and microfiber lining allowing the shoe to be worn barefoot and to drain water away.

According to Zoot, other shoes can gain as much as 30 percent more weight due to water retention. I always like to test a shoe by first taking a long walk. During my walk, I got a slight rub in the toe box but by the end of the walk it was worked out and not really causing me any issues.

I also have wide feet in this area so that was not much of a surprise for me. My left heel was rubbing but my right was not, guess I have strange feet, either way a little body glide in that area and that problem was solved. Running on the shoe felt very different than any other shoe, very light and you could feel the ground much more similar to running in flats or barefoot.

Picking up the pace I noticed my foot really stuck to the inside of the shoe and I felt the shoe provided me a better snap as my foot touch the ground and pulled through. I ran 5 miles in them and my first impression was good, maybe 4 out of 5 stars provided a 5 is a perfect shoe.

In summary, this shoe is clearly designed for triathletes who want to get the most out of their equipment. I would recommend using the shoe for shorter triathlons up to the 1/2 Iron distance as well as alternating the shoe with another shoe type on training days. As with most things, don’t expect anything too dramatic from a different shoe, but you may just shave a second or two off your run time and that can be the difference between 1st and 3rd place in a sprint distance triathlon.

Jerry crossing the line at Ironman Florida 2008.

Jerry Cody lives in Durham, North Carolina. If you are in Kona in the next few years, be sure to look Jerry up, because he will likely be racing.

Great blog! I found it as I have been looking for training tips, and occasionally peek at Zen Habits. Anyway, I’m gearing up for the Anchorman Portland (sprint) on August 30.

However, I am also a dad to twins (they are just a couple months shy of two now), and I am wondering what the night before and race day morning typically looks like for you? My wife just told me that she was planning on not counting on me being “present” on race day, which will help me remember my transition stuff and actually make it to the boat on time, but I thought you’d have a better idea of how it actually goes. Also, how have you and your wife balanced out your training schedule with twin care?

Just wondering. Thanks for all the great tips.

Stephen, thanks for the great question! Race morning can be stressful, even if you are by yourself, so being prepared is the best solution. I also have two-year-old twins, so I know what everyday life is like for you. Us family guys and gals have to be even better prepared than triathletes without kids!

I have addressed some of what race morning looks like for me in my previous post, 28 Tips for Triathlon Transitions. Getting all of your stuff for the run, bike and swim packed away safely and securely will give you peace of mind and allow you to focus on racing.

I think it good to have your stuff packed for your race a few nights before. That way, on the actual night of the race, all you have to do is relax and prepare mentally for the challenge that lies ahead. Get it all in your transition bags, get your bike ready, etc., then get to bed early!

On race morning, especially for those with families who plan to accompany you to the race to cheer you on, I strongly suggest taking two vehicles if possible. My kids are now all over the place, so my wife, being the sweetheart she is, gives me a free pass on race morning. This means I don’t have to worry about feeding the kids or getting them dressed. She takes care of all that. I worry about eating and last minute checks of gear, etc.

I also tend to be a bit irritable on race morning (or any morning, for that matter). Taking two vehicles allows me to leave at whatever time I think appropriate, thus not stressing the rest of the family too much. They can be on their own schedule and I can be on mine. This makes everyone happier! Plus, I can listen to whatever loud rap or heavy metal music I feel like at the time! I like to get fired up, baby!

My ultimate goal is getting myself and all of my gear to the race in time to set up my transition area with plenty of time to spare before the race starts. I usually get my stuff set up and then call my wife to see where she and the kids are. I will then track them down after I do my warm-up. You will be surprised at how much a hug and kiss from your wife and kids can boost your enthusiasm and energy!

If you do have to take one vehicle to the race, simply let your family members know what to expect. If you want to get there early to have some time to relax, be sure to build that into the schedule. After you have a few races under your belt, the stress of race morning is still there, but you know what to expect, so it’s not quite as bad anymore.

Good luck! If you have specific questions on race morning or anything, please leave them in the comments. Thanks for reading!

This is especially true if this is your first triathlon. Without actually having done it before, it will be a bit stressful for you. If, however, you prepare yourself well and manage to stay calm while you are trying to get your bike shoes on, you can actually make up quite a bit of time on some of your race peers.

If you are doing a longer distance triathlon, like an Ironman or Half-Ironman, having a speedy transition doesn’t make up that large of a time percentage compared to the whole race.

For instance, two extra minutes spent resting in a Half-Ironman might do you some good, but will have little affect on your overall time, which, depending on your ability, anywhere from five to seven hours.

In a sprint triathlon, however, two minutes would probably drop your place in the race by at 20, 30, even 40 places depending on the size of the race. So, making a quick transition from swim to bike, then bike to run is vitally important!

If you are doing your first race, though, I would worry less about time and more about making sure you have everything you need. After a few races, you realize you don’t need that much. Below are 26 tips that might help you in setting up and skillfully navigating your transition area. It is up to you to remain calm, cool, and collected at all times.

1. Before you start packing your transition bag, think about what gear each sport will require, then add each item to your bag.
2. For instance, for the swim, you will need your goggles and your race assigned swim cap. If it’s an open water and depending on the water temperature, you may need your wetsuit. For the bike, you will need cycling shoes, helmet and sunglasses. Attention all new triathletes!!!! You do not need cycling gloves! Talk about a time waster! This was a point I pondered for hours before more my first tri, so I have just saved you much brain power. For the run, you will need a race belt with your number on it, your running shoes, and maybe a hat or a visor.
3. That’s pretty much it for the important stuff. Everything else is more for your own comfort, like a towel on which to place your stuff, or anti-fog spray for your goggles, or extra shoestrings, or some trash bags in case it rains and you want to stick your cycling and running shoes in them. Keep all that stuff in your tri bag at all times and you won’t have to worry about it.
4. There are many excellent packing lists on the Internet already. If you become a USAT member (good idea if you are planning to do more than one race), they give you a little credit card with a checklist of all the things you might need on race day, like sunscreen, a tire pump, a spare tube, etc. Again, have all your miscellaneous items packed, the work through the list of important stuff. After that, your packed, ready to go, and you can relax.
5. I like to get to the race early so that I have plenty of time setting up my stuff. I also like to walk around and say hello to everyone that I know who his racing. You will see some stressed out people, so don’t feel bad if you are one of them! You can also learn a lot by watching other triathletes, especially the good ones, set up their transition areas.
6. As far as warming up before the race, the general rule of thumb is the shorter the race, the longer the warm-up. So, if you are doing a sprint, you might want to run for a mile or so to loosen up. You will also want to get in the water before the swim to stretch out. It’s really up to you what you do. Some do no warm up, some do a lot. If would be more concerned with swimming than anything probably. If you are doing an Ironman or a Half, I would just save my energy and skip the warm-up all together. You’ll have plenty of time to warm-up over the next 5 to 17 hours!
7. On race morning, you will have the opportunity before the race to put all of the things you need for your race in your own little spot. There will be racks to put your bike on, and your race number will usually correspond with your spot on the rack. Make sure your bike is racked on the side your number is facing, as usually bikes are staggered down the rack on each side.
8. At this point, I like to walk around the transition area to check out where the entrances and exits are from the swim, to mount your bike, and, most importantly, coming back in on the bike and exiting to start the run.
9. You will be surprised how similar everything looks when you come back in off the bike. I have wasted valuable minutes searching for my bike in transition, so don’t let this be you! Some folks even put balloons or some other marker at the end of their rack, so they know which rack their bike is on. This is all well and good until the balloon pops or there are two red balloons. My wife used to get me super-hero ballons so I would I know where I was — just look for Spider Man! Either way, just know where your spot in relation to the bike dismount!
10. You will see people who have their bikes racked either by the handlebars or by the seat, facing out from the rack. I’m not sure which is quicker to pull off and get moving toward the bike mount area, but you do what you feel most comfortable with. I don’t think it matters much.
11. Simply find a space to either side of your bike and place a towel or a mat. If you happen to luck up and get bike rack that is on the end, you have all the space you want! Lucky you!
12. After you have walked around a bit (or before), lay your items out in your transition space in a way that makes it simple to get your shoes on off. I like to have my bike stuff on one side and my running stuff on the other.
13. Always loosen the shoe laces on your running shoes and unfasten the velcro straps from your cycling shoes. You want to be able to get these on and off quickly! Triathlon specific cycling shoes usually only have one strap to mess with, so it makes it much quicker than putting on normal cycling shoes that have three straps. For running shoes, try Yankz or Lock Laces, which are elastic laces with locks that make it easy to just slide your shoes on. They do an excellent job! I even use them in training because they are comfortable, and because I want to be used to them.
14. Try putting some Vaseline on the top inside part of your shoes at the rear. It will make it easier for your heel to slip into the shoe. I also sometimes put baby powder in my running shoes and cycling shoes to help dry my feet. Remember, you will be wet when you are transitioning from swim to bike!
15. Lay your helmet top side down on your handlebars or aero bars. Lay the straps open to either side so you can just grab it plop it on your noggin and buckle it up. I always try my helmet on before laying it out just to make sure it’s fitting right and their are no snags or tangles in the straps.
16. I then put my sunglasses (I usually wear these not only for coolness points but to keep from getting hit in the eye with debris, rocks, bugs, etc.) laying open in my helmet. So, sunglasses on, helmet on and buckled, and your off.
17. As far as your bike, make sure you’re in an easy gear. You don’t want to start off trying to mount your bike when it is in the big ring!
18. You should have your fluids already prepared as well, of course. I like a bottle on my down tube, then an aero-bottle full of whatever. If it is a longer race, you should invest in a Bento Box that will allow you to store a lot of your race nutrition, like gels, bars, etc.
19. Keep a towel hanging on your bike. You can grab this right when you return from the swim to wipe of your face and perhaps your feet.
20. If you are male and racing in a sprint, in some races you will be allowed to ride without a shirt. In some races, you can’t. The best solution for not having to put a cycling shirt on a wet body is a triathlon specific suit, which you can find online or in any triathlon store. In my very first triathlon, I think I spent at least four of five minutes in transition trying to get my shirt on. For reference, a decent sprint transition time would be less than a minute and a half. Elite athletes often have times of 40-50 seconds.
21. If you are racing in a wetsuit legal race, you would wear whatever you need under your suit. Some folks use things like Pam cooking spray, BodyGlide, or other wetsuit specific sprays like Suit Juice to enable their wetsuits to slip off their ankles and arms easily.
22. If it is a wetsuit legal race, when you exit the water and are running to your bike, start removing your suit by pulling the zipper down in back. I usually try to have mine down at my waist before I get back to my bike.
23. Once back to your bike, I find it much easier to just sit or lie down and pull the thing off my legs. I find if I stand, I have a tendency for my calf muscles to cramp from the pressure of the wetsuit on the legs. Do what works best for you. Removing a wetsuit is a skill you should practice a few times before the race! In Ironmans and bigger Halfs, they have wetsuit strippers there for you. You just lie down and the pull it off. How nice!
24. When I get back to my bike, I usually put my shoes on first, then helmet, then the sunglasses. Next, grab your bike off the rack and hit it! You have to run your bike to the bike mount area though with your helmet on, so don’t try to get on before then!
25. After you have smoked your ride, start preparing yourself physically for the transition to the run. Over the last few miles, switch to a lighter gear and spin more to prepare your legs for the run. You should already have a cadence of 85-90 (see my post, Improve Your Running In Five Minutes, for more info on that), so riding at that cadence, at least over the last few miles, would be highly beneficial to your legs. If you have never felt the experience of getting off the bike and running, I urge to try it in a “brick” workout of your own in training before the race!
26. You should also take in a gel and make sure that you have hydrated properly over the entire ride. You don’t want to have to drink too much at the end of the bike, as it will more than likely be sloshing in your stomach on the beginning of the run.
27. If you have the bike handling skills, you might also reach down and unfasten your straps on your shoes. I often find that my feet feel much better after wiggling them around and getting some blood to them before they hit the pavement.
28. Prepare yourself mentally for the transition to the run. Over the last few miles, you should also be prepared in your head. Run through the steps that will result in a speedy transition. Imagine yourself hitting the dismount line, jumping off and running with your bike, the finding your rack and racking it. Next, off with them helmet. Slide your running shoes on and grab your race belt and hat while heading out. You can put your race belt on after you are running semi-comfortably.

A nicely arranged transition area.

At this point in the race, all that’s left for you do is run! That’s about it for my transition tips. If you have any transition tips that you think would fit, please leave them in the Comments section. Thanks for reading! Also, if you are training for a triathlon, let me know which race and when!

The are two rides that leave from the shop at 6 on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The A-rides average 22-plus for 30 miles around and through the outskirts of Cary. The B-ride is usually 19-21, so it’s a pretty fast ride. Other rides I have done from bike shops in the area, including Cycling Spoken Here and The Spin Cycle in Cary. The B-rides on these I believe were held to 18 mph, which is perfect for this time of the year. One local shop offers a ride on Sunday mornings that is huge! I think I’ve seen as many as 50 riders on that one.

Check around in your area for bike or triathlon shops. Most offer group rides leaving right from their stores. It makes it mighty convenient for them to sell you bikes, helmets, cycling shoes, tubes, etc., when they do that sort of thing, so it behooves them to make sure the ride is fun and safe.

Anyway, over the years I usually have done one or two fast group rides per week. This, along with one long-ride on the weekends, was essentially my cycling training. I have picked up some tips that I share below on etiquette for riding in a group. Many folks are nervous about group riding because of the close proximity to the other riders. You have to pay attention and you count on your fellow riders to do their part in keeping everyone upright.

In no particular order, below are some tips on how to ride in a group setting. Etiquette, I have found, is usually consistent from group to group on organized rides. But there are group specific gestures and signals, as well, so be sure to pay attention to the ride leader for instruction. Someone is usually designated the ride leader before the ride starts.

There is usually an “A” ride, a “B” ride, and sometimes even a “C” ride. Don’t hesitate to ask either the ride leaders or any of your fellow riders about speeds of groups, skill of riders, etc., as this will vary somewhat.

Here are my tips. If I have forgotten any that you think are relevant, please leave them in Comments.

1. Ride in a group that is appropriate for your cycling ability. For instance, if you typically average 16 mph on a training ride, chances are good you will be in either a “C” or a “B” ride. Expect “A” rides to be 20 mph plus. Each bike shop will vary and will let you know beforehand.
2. If you are a triathlete and you are going on a group ride with a bunch of road cyclists, typically you will be expected to ride upright, on your bullhorns, rather than down in the aero position. If you are fortunate enough to have a triathlon shop in your town, everyone will likely ride in the aero position. This is nice because it allows you to spend time riding the way you would in actual triathlon. If you happen to have just a road bike, you are still more than welcome to ride with triathletes! Some groups don’t care one way or another, but you should meet the expectation, as some riders get nervous when they don’t know you or your ability to ride. If you tend to weave when you are in the aero position by yourself, it’s best not to try it in a group setting.
3. If you are new to the group, just start off easy kind of in the middle of the pack. If you have never ridden with other people before, you will find it much easier to ride in the draft of the riders in front of you. The riders on the front and a few rows back are generally the stronger riders in the group and will maintain the pace, usually, while taking the brunt of the wind. Thus, the group travels much faster as a whole than you would by yourself.
4. For your first group ride, stay in the draft the whole way. Do not take any pulls on the front unless you are quite confident in your ability to stay with the group for the duration of the ride. Trust me, when you are barely hanging on at mile 25 of a 30 mile group ride, you will thank me.
5. As such, always have directions for your first ride with a particular group. Getting dropped and getting lost, which I’ve done several times, is not fun! I always carry a cell phone and an ID with me regardless of where or with whom I’m riding.
6. When you ride behind another rider, the rider in front is expected to let the rider behind know if there are hazards ahead. For example, if I’m in front of you and I see a hole in the road ahead, I would point at it and yell, “Hole!”
7. Another gesture that is used often yelled by whomever is on the ball is “Car up!” This indicates that a vehicle is coming from ahead. “Car back!” would be if a car is coming from behind. “Passing” is when one a vehicle is trying to pass the entire group. There is no rule about how many times things are yelled out, so don’t be shy. “Gravel!” is another phrase you hear yelled a lot at intersections, as usually there is debris at intersections and taking a turn on loose gravel can be very tricky.
8. Only point out truly hazardous things. Some riders point out every little thing. Then, when something like a big rock or a pot hole that needs to be avoided comes along, nobody is really paying attention anymore.
9. When turning right, most people just point to the right. When turning left, you can either make an “L” shape with your left hand, or just point left. Either way, the key is to let people behind you know that a turn is coming up.
10. When coming to a stop, just put your hand out behind you and call out, “Stopping.” When the group is slowing, just call out “Slowing.” Most of the things are common sense, so just use your best judgment. No one is going to get mad at you as long as you let them know what you are doing.
11. When you are in front of another rider and you want to move over and drop back, always move to your left. Never drop back on the right, ever. You might see some people try it from time to time, especially if you are riding two by two, and the guy on the right decides to just to “slide” to the right to come back, but it’s better for him to move two places to the left, then drop back. That way, everyone can plainly see what you are doing.
12. You will likely either be riding as a group in one line or two. On busy roads, groups will usually ride one abreast. On more desolate roads without a lot of traffic or congestion, it is usually two abreast. At other times, you may ride in a pace line, but this is usually done on “A” rides and requires quite a lot of riding skill on the part of the entire group for it to work effectively.
13. Don’t worry if you get dropped. Some groups, especially “C” type rides, have “No drop” rules. So, just keep going and you will probably catch up to someone at an intersection. Believe me, everyone gets dropped, even seasoned riders. Some days are better than others!
14. In case you have a flat, make sure you’re prepared with a tube and either a small pump or a CO2 cartridge and a connector. Even though the rides are usually only 30 miles or so, you still have flats.
15. If you do hear your tube pop, just stay calm and gradually slow down using the brakes of the tire that is still inflated. Easier said than done! Once you are safely on the side of the road, then start assessing the damage. Usually, somebody in the group will stop with you. This is especially true if you ask. Often riders will check to make sure you have everything you need to change the tire. If you are less than spectacular at changing a tire (shame on you), some kind soul might stay behind with you to help you change it.
16. As I mentioned above, conserve energy until you have about five miles left. Groups tend to get faster as the ride goes along. On the Inside-Out ride that I do, we cruise about five miles at conversational pace. We then hit it hard for 20 miles, then we cruise back in for five. Each ride is different. On some rides I have done, it’s a sprint right back to the store.
17. Have fun! Although you are probably a bit nervous, especially if it is your first time riding in a group situation, just remember that everyone is out there to have fun. Other riders will be happy to let you know everything they can about the ride, what they are training for, etc., so you are sure to make some new friends along the way!

I’m pretty sure someone told you that you need a bike. If you are going to do more than sprint triathlons, it should be a road bike—although a hybrid or MTB can get you through your first few sprints. If you have money to burn, go ahead and get that tricked out triathlon bike, but realize that “it’s not about the bike.”

It becomes pretty obvious that no matter what distance triathlon you choose to race, it’s important to be a good cyclist. There are several reasons:

• the stronger you are on the bike, the less painful it will be to run
• triathlons are heavily weighted towards time spent on the bike, so as long as you are going to be biking for most of the race, it makes sense to try and be good at it, right?
• biking is the part of a triathlon where you are going the fastest, and fast is fun, right?

So how do you get good at biking? Do you buy a bunch of lightweight parts for your bike or race wheels? No. Those things may improve your speed slightly, but once you have them and have used them for a bit, they won’t make you faster.

You get good at biking in two simple ways: bike a lot, and bike hard.

Obviously, if your race is going to include a 25-mile bike leg (an Olympic distance triathlon’s bike leg is 24.8 miles or 40K), then you want to be fit enough to ride 25 miles at a pretty good clip. Depending on how fast you ride, 25 miles might take you 1-1.5 hours. That’s not a long time. But you might want to actually ride further than that sometimes, so it makes the 25 miles seem easy (you’ve probably heard this concept applied to running and swimming, too!).

If you are very dedicated, you’d ride 25 miles maybe three or four times a week. Or, you might ride less than that, one to three times, and then ride longer (say, 40 miles) once a week. Three to four rides a week is usually plenty when it comes to building your bike fitness.

What about the hard part? Just as for swimming and running, you don’t always want to ride at the same pace. You need to have some sort of benchmark to measure what is easy vs. hard for you. Speed is not a good benchmark unless you live somewhere where it is flat, the same temperature and the same amount (or lack) of wind all the time, since hills, temperature and wind significantly impact speed.

Good benchmarks are heart rate and power—power being the gold standard. Most beginners don’t have power meters, so they use heart rate, or a combination of heart rate and perceived effort. Perceived effort is always a good measurement, since even if you do someday spring for the power meter, you will still want to stay in touch with your body’s overall sense of effort, especially at longer races like the half and full Ironmans.

Why do you need to ride hard sometimes? Because climbing hills requires more effort than flats, you might need to surge to pass someone (legally), and because when you ride hard, just like in running, you are working on raising your lactate threshold, meaning that if you do it often enough, you will be able to ride faster at a lower heart rate (or power output).

How often and for how long in each ride do you need to ride hard? When you are first starting out, you may only want or need to spend less than half of your total ride time going hard. You should always begin with a warm-up, and a good rule of thumb is 10-15 minutes for a short ride, 15-30 minutes for a ride of 1-2 hours, and 30-40 minutes for a ride of 2.5+ hours.

As you build up the amount of time you are able to ride hard, you will find it feels easier and easier or you are going faster and faster. This is where the heart rate monitor (or power meter) can really help you out by telling you precisely what you are doing. You should stay at a given level for a few weeks or prove your fitness at that level in a race before you try and go even harder.

What does hard really mean, though? “Very hard” would be as fast as you could go for 25 miles, as in a time trial. Hard would be not as hard as that, where it feels hard but you can maintain it for about 30-40 minutes easily. Below that you have basically moderate and easy, and when you warm up it should be easy building to moderate to prepare you for the hard stuff.

Just as for running and swimming, it can feel easier to push yourself in a group setting. Try and hook up with a local cycling club, which will probably have several levels of riders, or find some other folks you can ride with that are slightly faster than you. Ask around about where the killer hills are in your area. A good workout is to warm-up and then ride a hill or several hills in “repeats,” where you ride up very hard, and then take it easy going back down.

What do you do during the winter if you live in a place where outdoor riding would be dangerous or impossible? You purchase a bike trainer, which is a device where you attach your rear wheel to it and there is a resistance drum that the tire rubs against to simulate road conditions. There are many good trainers on the market, and if you can test ride one before you buy, that’s great, because depending on how strong you are, you might want a different type. If you ride indoors on a trainer, you will want a fan blowing on you because you will sweat a lot due to not creating your own wind.

There is discussion as to how time on the trainer equates to time on the road. Some people think that time on a trainer is “worth” more than time on the road. Forget about it. It is the same. Time is time! But it’s OK to spend less time during the winter months on the trainer than you would if you were riding outside, but make the time count by spending more time going hard than you normally would. You can watch TV, movies, footage of bike races, triathlons, whatever gets you going, and you can have your favorite music on.

You can also buy DVD’s called Spinervals that guide you through specific workouts. My philosophy is that if you put in a lot of hard time in the winter, then the transition to longer outdoor riding is easy. I build up to a 2.5-2.75 hour trainer ride, and once it warms up, I can easily ride 3-4 hours outdoors the very first time I go out. You don’t want to burn out mentally during the winter, so if you cut back your biking time, you can add more swimming or running, because winter is a good time to work on those skills.

It’s as simple as that—bike a lot, and bike hard!

Sheila looking quite aero!

Sheila embarked on triathlons in 2000, coming from a background of 10 years of strength training, two years of running, zero swimming and negligible biking. She completed her first Ironman (which in 1999 she said she would never do) in 2001 and has continued to do one or two a year, a few half Ironmans and sprints just to keep things entertaining. In the process, she has become a student of the sports and has adopted the triathlon lifestyle. You can find her on Facebook and on her blog at http://crackheadfe.blogspot.com.

When I first got involved in the sport four (or five) years ago, I didn’t have a bike and I didn’t have any money to buy one. Thus, I started trainining for my first race by attending spin classes at my gym. You could also simply ride on the stationary bikes in your gym’s cardio room. This is not exactly like the real thing, obviously, but it will get you used to pedaling and it will build a tough rear-end that will see you through those long rides.

My Cervelo P2SL at Ironman Florida.

For my race, I borrowed a road bike from my brother-in-law. He is a big bike geek, so he had several to spare. I actually ended up buying the bike from him later, but before I bought, I wanted to make sure that triathlon was something I enjoyed and was going to stick with. I would be willing to bet that many garages have a fancy new tri bike sitting there collecting dust. Someone signed up for a race, got talked into buying a triathlon-specific bike, and never used it again after they realized how hard triathlons are!

For my first two years of training, I used a road bike with clip-on aerobars. Only after I decided I was going to stay in the sport for awhile did I go out and by my first tri bike, a Cervelo P2SL.

For now, simply borrow a bike, any kind of bike, from a friend or neighbor. After you finish that first race, you will have a better idea of what kind of time and money you want to invest in the sport. In a future post, I will discuss the benefits of a triathlon specific bike, but for now, stick with something that rolls fairly well and you will be fine!

1. Bike – Despite all of the advertisements and flyers from your local bike shop saying that you need a brand new tri-specific bike, all you really need is something with two wheels, pedals and handlebars. I have seen many folks on mountain or commuter bikes in shorter triathlons, so you don’t even need a road bike. Borrow a bike from a friend, check the ads on your local CraigsList, or perhaps even rent one for the day from your LBS (local bike shop).

2. Helmet – You are required to use a hard-shell helmet for triathlons or you will be disqualified. Wearing a helmet is no longer an option even on group rides really, so get used to that pineapple on top of your head. In fact, many cyclists refuse to ride with folks who are not wearing a helmet, as they don’t want to see you get hurt. You can find a suitable, inexpensive model at your local Wal-Mart or Dick’s Sporting Goods for about $30, or borrow one from a friend.

3. Running Shoes – A good pair of running shoes is essential for you to complete your training (and your race) without injury. You don’t need the flashy $100 model right off the bat, however. You can find a decent pair of shoes at Target or Wal-Mart for a song, and they will serve you well. Once you decide that this a sport you intend to stick with, you can go out and buy that new pair of Newtons for $165. Do not try to train in shoes that are not specifically designed for running. You will regret it after your first three-mile run.

4. Goggles – Find a good pair of goggles at your favorite sporting goods store. Take them out of the package and try to suction them to your eyes. If they form a seal, you have a keeper. If they don’t, keep trying until you find some that do. If the store will not allow you to try them on, find one that will. You should be able to find a suitable pair for $10-15.

5. Race Belt – If you have ever run in a 5K, you know that in running races, you pin your race number to your shirt before the race. In triathlon, however, things aren’t that easy. You swim first, so you leave your race number in transition, unless of course you wanted to wear it while swimming! On the bike leg, your bike has a number on it, so you don’t need another number then. Following the bike, when you get to your second transition to prepare for the run leg, you have a belt with your race number already attached. You just grab it, strap it to your waist, and off you go! You can buy one at any triathlon store, or even at most races at the packet pickup, for about $5.

6. Race Attire – This item isn’t necessarily essential, but some would consider it so. There are many options for clothing in a triathlon. There are suits that are designed specifically to enable you to swim, bike and run comfortably without having to change at all. They are hydro-dynamic, so there is little drag in the water. They also have a small pad in the crotch to allow some comfort on the bike. The small pad also allows you to run well without feeling like you have a diaper on (which is what a pair of regular cycling shorts would afford). Some men race in only a pair of tri shorts (or a Speedo depending on how bashful you are) and no shirt (if the weather, and the particular race, allow it). Some females run race in one-piece swim suits. You be the judge of how much comfort, convenience in transition, and how much money you are willing to spend on your race. A good tri-suit or a good pair of tri shorts and a top should last you a few seasons of racing. Look to spend $80-100 on one though.

7. Wet Suit – Depending on when and where your first race is, the swim leg might require a wet-suit, depending on your tolerance for cold water. Most folks opt for a race with a pool swim as their first, as open-water swimming presents its own set of challenges and is much different than pool swimming. So, decide on the race, then decide if you will need a wetsuit. The good news is that most triathlon shops rent them for races, so you can get one for race day for about $50. If you are gung-ho and plan to do many more triathlons, you can go buy a decent wetsuit for about $150-200. You might also check CraigsList or other classified listings in your area for a used model. The bright side is that a wetsuit will enable you to swim faster while using less energy. Most triathletes watch the water temperature closely before races to make sure that it will be wetsuit legal, as their swim times will usually be faster and require less effort.

Triathlon: Swim, Bike, Run!

Many people consider triathlons to be one of the great tests of human endurance. A lot of sports-minded folks have seen or heard about the Ironman World Championships in Kona through the tape-delayed broadcast shown around the first week of December on NBC (the race is actually in held in October).

The Ironman, a 2.4-mile swim, 112-mile bike, and 26.2-mile run, is certainly a distance that most people can’t relate to, at least at first. However, the good news is that there are several different distances of triathlons that the average person can enter and comfortably complete with only a few months of training. Read on to learn more about the sport of triathlon and the things you should know before you sign up for your first race.

Distances and terrain vary from race to race, however, there are generally four different distances of triathlons:

Sprint

• 500-800 yards of swimming (pool or lake)
• 12-15 miles of biking
• 5K, or 3.1 miles of running

International (Olympic) Distance

• 1650 yards of swimming (lake, ocean)
• 25-30 miles of biking
• 10K, or 6.2 miles of running

Half Ironman

• 1.2 miles (2,200 yards) of swimming (lake, ocean)
• 56 miles of biking
• 13.1 miles of running

Ironman

• 2.4 miles (4,400 yards) of swimming
• 112 miles of biking
• 26.2 miles of running

It’s fairly easy to see what you are getting in to with each distance. Most people opt to start out with a sprint as it offers just a taste of what you can expect from the sport. There are, however, athletes that I know personally that started with the Ironman right off the bat. This is not what I would recommend, but if you are daring, have at it. It all really depends of what kind of shape you are in now and what your experience level is with each sport.

Again, check your local rec departments or do a search on triathlons in your area. I guarantee you will find a race that is appealing in proximity, distance, and price of entry. A word to the wise though … triathlon is a growing sport and races fill up quickly. I live in North Carolina and our state triathlon series, the NCTS, opens up its races right at the first of year. So, be attentive to when your local race season starts and be prepared to sign on the dotted line when you see a race that fits your schedule and budget.

Things to Consider

1. General Fitness Level. What kind of shape are you in right now? Are you active, or have you been more watching than doing? If you are in reasonable cardiovascular shape, you can complete a sprint triathlon in as little as four months of effort, no problem. You will need to work up to about an hour’s worth of steady aerobic activity, be it walking, riding a stationary bike, elliptical machine, whatever. Just get moving and give the individual sports of swimming, biking and running a try to be sure you like them. If have run before, taken a spin class

2. Training Plans. There are many books and web sites that offer fabulous training plans that will suit any athlete looking to complete any distance or race. Many of the these are free, some you can buy memberships to, and you could even go as far as hire a coach. Depending on what your goals are, you have decision to make. How much money are you willing to throw at your new hobby? How well do you want to do in your first race? Are you racing to finish, or do you have a specific time goal in mind? All of these will factor in to what works best for you right now. I would choose a plan, follow it to the letter, and finish your first race. Once you go through the process once, you’ll be better prepared for the triathlon addiction that ensues.

3. Bike. What kind of bike will you ride? Do you have a road bike, a mountain bike, or anything with pedals? If you do, you’re ahead of the game. If you have chosen a local sprint or international distance for your first race, the bike really doesn’t matter that much. Many people complete triathlons on all sorts of bike. Do your first one and see if you like it before you go out and buy an expensive triathlon-specific bike. You can find cheap bikes all over Craigs List, eBay, etc., if you don’t have one. You can also simply borrow one from a friend and do some of your training on a stationary bike at the gym. Keep it as simple as possible for your first. You will also need a helmet. These range in price from an adequate one for $30 at Wal-Mart or a sleek $150 model at your local triathlon or bike shop.

4. Swimming. Do you have access to a swimming pool or a nearby lake that will enable you to work on your swimming? Many gyms have small pools that will suffice, as will local ponds, lakes, etc., in warmer months. Swimming is often an obstacle that scares people about triathlon. Rest assured, though, that many folks start out in triathlon without being able to swim, period. They take lessons and often quickly learn to be a more than adequate swimmer. If you haven’t done alot of swimming in your life, it’s a good idea to take some lessons, or look into one of the fabulous swimming programs like Total Immersion. Swimming is mostly technique, so getting it right the first time will pay huge dividends down the road.

5. Running. How far can you run now? Have you run previously, say, over the last five or six years? The answers to these questions will need to be assessed honestly by you. It is perfectly fine to walk in a triathlon. I have seen many elite athletes walking in short races over the years. Running comfortably across the finish line is much more fun, though, I can assure you. Be prepared to work up to about four miles of running. If you can’t cover that distance now, don’t worry. Running is something that is a skill, much more than people realize. You can learn to be a better runner in a few hours by learning about proper posture, foot strike, cadence, etc. A book that I found immensely helpful in improving my running is Chi Running, which teaches you proper form and how to run from your core.

6. Gym Membership. Do you have access to a gym with a pool and stationary bikes or spin classes? This is a great way to train for a sprint triathlon in the winter. Many clubs offer triathlon specific spin classes, swimming classes, etc. You can go to your gym and do mini-triathlons anytime. It also gives you a good sense of how riding on a bike, then running for awhile feels, all in the comfort of indoor heating! A short run on the treadmill following a spin class is an excellent workout, and you have a built-in transition area in the lockerroom. Consider a gym in your area for convenient access to equipment and possibly new training partners.

7. Training Partners. Are you peers in to the sport? If so, you are in luck. If not, you need to get out and meet some like-minded individuals. Triathlon is a lifestyle, as you will soon see, and if you surround yourself with people who excel at the sport, odds are you will, too. I would be willing to bet that there are more triathletes in your area than you thought. Do a search on tri-clubs with your city and see what you come up with.

8. Online Resources. There are several online resources which offer excellent tips, advice and other resources that will help make your first race a snap. Visit www.trinewbies.com and www.beginnertriathlete.com and check out the forums these sites offer. Many of the questions you have will be answered right there. Also, to find a race near you, visit www.trifind.com.